Wednesday, October 18, 2006

Rub My Boston Butt...

Anthony and I were blending BBQ rubs the other night. We make two or three different mixes depending on what's in the cupboard at any given time. I look forward to the day when I can actually try to market one or two them, but that means taking better notes and I’m not one for writing recipes down. In fact if it wasn’t for eating ugly I would never be able to make the same thing twice. I figure even if no one ever reads it at least Anthony will have a record of our gastronomic adventures. And with him as my muse I am finding motivation and inspiration around every turn. He just makes everything so much fun and talk about a quick study. I know every parent thinks their child is brilliant (at least I hope they do), but my little bug is a culinary prodigy.

Anyway, I store my spice menagerie in a few plastic containers in the cabinet next to Anthony’s. Yes, he has his own cabinet where he stores his personal linens, pots and pans, tongs and BBQ tools. Most of his epicurean toolbox doubles as musical instruments and doggie deterrent devices. We have recently begun putting a few of his favorite salsas, BBQ sauces and snacks in there as well. Preparation for any meal is a Broadway production in my house, especially the nigh before we plan to barbecue.

As “Applier of the Rubs” chef Anthony takes his responsibility very seriously. My job is to help him measure each of the rub components into individual ramekins and tell him the name of everything. He then repeats the name and dumps each portioned spice into his large stainless steel mixing bowl. After a quick whisk in the bowl we transfer the spice blend to a disposable plastic receptacle and he begins the BBQ rub dance. A ceremony he created that involves marching around the kitchen or backyard shaking the spice vessel and drumming on it with his wooden spoon. This ritual could last as long 30 minutes or be as short as 30 seconds. If all goes well and Anthony feels the rub is acceptable we move on to the application process. If in the not so rare instance that Anthony is not satisfied with the rub we call for the Council of the Vacuum and offer a sacrifice of BBQ rub to the Goddess of the Broom Closet. My bride has presently been appointed to this honored rank and as she does not see a ½ pound of BBQ rub spilled on the floor a proper offering she invokes a wrath of awesome proportions when my son is dissatisfied with our rub.

After the BBQ rub is properly blended we begin what originally was a very messy application process. Upon completion of a few collaborative cooking sessions with Chef Anthony I learned a number of tricks that help keep my kitchen clean. First we line the countertops with newspaper and then I put the meat in a large disposable pan. Anthony then picks a spoon from his BBQ toolbox and moves his stepping chair to the edge of the countertop. He spoons the rub onto the meat and then gently rubs it in. While he is rubbing on the rub I lay out a few sheets of plastic wrap (if we are letting it marinate over night). When he is done I tightly wrap the meat and we begin the cleanup. Likewise, if we are cooking it immediately we take the meat directly out the smoker or grill and he lets me put it on. The first order of business when cleaning up is our hands and he never forgets to wash his hands with soap and water. Even when we just pour a bowl of cereal he has to wash his hands before leaving the counter.

Traditionally we tend to mix large quantities of our BBQ rubs which often makes for some very expensive spice blends. I tend to purchase my spices in bulk either online or at my local restaurant supply store. Additionally I like to buy whole spices and grind them at home. I have also, on occasion, found some quality fresh spices at the wholesale club, but their selection can be erratic at best and often bordering on 6 months old. It can prove to be much easier on the wallet to buy commercially blended BBQ rubs, plus there are literally hundreds to choose from on the web. I stock a select few at UglyGourmet.com as I try to only sell what I will cook with and consume.

My rub blends can be a combination of as few as 3 spices to as many as ten or more. Anthony and I often use a hot paprika (generally hot paprika is not hot it is just darker in color) for the rub base. Paprika’s subtle flavor helps distribute the other spices evenly throughout the blend. From there we move to garlic powder, brown sugar, cumin, chili powder, chile powder or anything else I find in my collection. I can go on for hours about my philosophies of BBQ rubs and my ideas about what flavors are best for BBQ, but I will leave that for a late night winter post. Today I will just wrap things up with the recipe we used for this weekends Boston Butt and brisket barbecue.

  • 1 Cup Hot Hungarian Paprika
  • 1/3 Cup Dark Brown Sugar
  • 1/3 Granulated Garlic powder
  • 1/3 Onion Powder
  • 1/3 Cup Ground Cumin (I usually bump this up to ½ Cup)
  • ¼ Cup Favorite Chili Powder
  • ¼ Cup Kosher Salt
  • ¼ Cup Dry Mustard Powder
  • 1 Tablespoon Fresh Ground Black Pepper
  • 1 Tablespoon White Pepper
  • 1 Tablespoon Ground Coriander
  • 1 Tablespoon Savory
  • 1 Tablespoon Chile Powder
  • 1 Tablespoon Dry Basil
  • 1 Tablespoon Dry Oregano

If stored in an airtight container the rub keeps for a few months. It probably won’t last that long because it tastes great in everything from beef to fish. The measurements for each ingredient are estimated and I have a heavy hand. Next time I will do my best to accurately keep track of the amounts. However, I will have to get a scale because I use the palm of my hand for a measuring cup. The key ingredient in this recipe is Anthony’s BBQ rub dance. Remember every great recipe has a little superstition surrounding it.

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